Polysorbate 20 USP/NF – Versatile Solubilizer & Emulsifier
Polysorbate 20, also known as TWEEN 20, is a gentle, non-ionic surfactant widely used in both DIY and commercial formulations. This powerful solubilizer ensures essential oils, fragrance oils, and light oils are evenly dispersed into water-based products, making it an indispensable ingredient for creating stable, homogeneous mixtures in skincare, haircare, and household products. Whether you're crafting a luxurious facial toner, a refreshing room spray, or a mild cleansing solution, Polysorbate 20 simplifies the process of blending oil and water without separation.
Key Features & Benefits
- Powerful Solubilizer: Perfect for dispersing small amounts of essential or fragrance oils into water-based solutions like toners, body mists, and room sprays.
- Mild Emulsifier: Works to blend oil and water in emulsions such as lotions, serums, and creams, creating smooth and stable products.
- Non-Ionic Cleansing: Offers a mild cleansing effect and helps suppress unwanted foaming, making it ideal for kitchen sprays, foaming cleansers, and other cleaning products.
- Compatibility with Various Ingredients: Easily incorporates into a variety of formulations, including haircare and bath products, due to its compatibility with other surfactants and emulsifiers.
Ingredients (Common Name): Polysorbate 20
INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
CAS Number: 9005-64-5
Appearance: Light yellow to clear liquid
Odor: Slight, non-intrusive odor
Solubility: Completely soluble in both water and oil
pH: Typically ranges from 5.0 to 7.0
HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance): 16.7, making it highly water-loving and ideal for oil-in-water emulsions
Recommended Usage Levels
The amount of Polysorbate 20 you need depends on your formulation:
- For Solubilizing Essential Oils or Fragrance Oils: Use a 2:1 to 3:1 ratio of Polysorbate 20 to oil. Adjust as necessary for specific formulations.
- For Emulsifying in Lotions & Creams: Use between 1% and 5% of the total formulation, depending on the amount of oil and other emulsifiers.
- For Cleansers & Sprays: Use between 1% and 20%, depending on the product type and oil load.
Suggested Uses
Polysorbate 20 is an extremely versatile ingredient and can be used in a variety of formulations, including:
- Room & Linen Sprays: Solubilizes fragrance oils to create refreshing, evenly dispersed sprays.
- Facial Toners & Mists: Adds essential oils to toners without causing separation or greasiness.
- Lotions & Creams: Helps emulsify light oils into water-based lotions, providing a smooth and luxurious texture.
- Hair Care: Blends oils seamlessly into shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments for smooth, consistent application.
- Household Cleansers: Ideal for water-based cleaning formulations, providing mild non-foaming action and helping to solubilize essential oils.
Best Practices for Use
Polysorbate 20 is essential for clear, oil-in-water solutions, but achieving the right balance requires precise measurements. Follow these guidelines for the best results:
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Ratios: The ideal ratio of Polysorbate 20 to oil varies based on the type of oil used. A common starting point is a 2:1 to 3:1 ratio (Polysorbate 20 to essential oil), but it’s important to test each formulation and keep thorough records, as results can differ based on the essential oil or fragrance oil brand.
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Weighted Measurements: Always measure by weight rather than volume to ensure accuracy. For example, 5 ml of essential oil may weigh approximately 4 grams, while the same volume of Polysorbate 20 may weigh closer to 6 grams. This difference can significantly impact your final product.
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Solution Appearance: If achieving full transparency proves difficult, consider using opaque bottles. While Polysorbate 20 can sometimes create clear emulsions, factors like the oil type and ratio used may affect clarity.
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Usage Tips: Pre-mix Polysorbate 20 with essential oils or fragrance oils before adding to your formula to ensure an even distribution. This can prevent clumping and ensure a more homogenous final product.
Storage & Shelf Life
- Storage: Store Polysorbate 20 in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight to maintain product integrity.
- Shelf Life: With proper storage, Polysorbate 20 can last up to 2 years. Ensure that containers are tightly sealed to prevent contamination.
External Use Only: Polysorbate 20 is intended for external applications and is not for internal consumption.
