Why Olivem 1000 Breaks Your Cream (and How to Make It Work)

If you're struggling to get Olivem 1000 to behave in your lotion or cream formula, you're not alone. This blog breaks down how to use Olivem 1000 properly, why it sometimes fails, and what to do about it — especially if you're an indie skincare maker.

Olivem 1000: What is this stuff and why won’t it behave?

If you’ve ever typed “what even is Olivem 1000” into Google after your lotion split or turned into weird mousse, this post is for you. I wrote this not as a brand but as someone who’s been there, trying to make a clean, minimalist cream that actually feels good. If you’re an indie maker wondering why this olive-oil-based emulsifier seems to have a mind of its own, keep reading.

So… what even is Olivem 1000?

It’s a naturally derived emulsifier made from olive oil. It helps oil and water mix together — basically what you need to turn your ingredients into a cream or lotion. On paper, it sounds amazing: ECOCERT-approved, PEG-free, and way more elegant than basic emulsifying wax. But it also comes with personality. This is not your dump-and-stir type of emulsifier.

Is it natural? Or is that just marketing?

It’s genuinely natural. No PEGs. No synthetic gunk. It’s made from cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate — both olive-based. It’s gentle on skin, good for minimalist formulas, and biodegradable.

Why does everyone say it’s hard to work with?

Because it kind of is. Olivem 1000 needs both phases (water and oil) to be heated properly, blended like your life depends on it, and supported with a thickener. If any of those steps are off, your cream might split, feel stringy, or get that dreaded white streak (also called soaping).

What is soaping and why does it ruin my cream?

Soaping is that annoying white cast or drag when you rub the product in. It’s like the cream refuses to absorb and just turns white on your skin. This usually happens when you:

• Use too much Olivem
• Skip fatty alcohol (like Cetyl Alcohol)
• Use too many heavy oils

You can fix it by lowering your Olivem to around 3% and adding 1.5 to 2% Cetyl Alcohol. Sticking to lighter oils also helps.

Why does my emulsion break even when I follow the steps?

This one makes everyone want to scream. But here’s what really goes wrong:

• Olivem hates aloe vera — especially powders and juices
• Your oil and water weren’t both heated to 70–75°C
• You didn’t blend well enough (yes, stick blenders count)
• You skipped a stabilizer. Sepimax Zen is your best friend here

Is Olivem 1000 okay if I’m new to formulating?

It depends. If you like experimenting and don’t mind a few failed batches, then yes. But if you’re just trying to whip up a basic lotion with no surprises, Emulsifying Wax NF is way easier. Olivem is for people who are curious and okay with learning as they go.

What about pH — do I need to worry?

Not really. Olivem works well between pH 3 and 12. But still double-check that your preservative system matches the pH of your final product.

Do I need to use a thickener?

Yes. Please don’t skip it. Even 0.3% Sepimax Zen or Hydroxyethyl Cellulose can help keep your emulsion from separating or feeling thin. Without one, your cream might break down during cooling.

What oils should I pair with it?

Keep it light. Grapeseed, Sunflower, Squalane — anything that doesn’t feel greasy. Heavy oils can make the final product feel draggy. Propanediol also helps give better slip and moisture.

So what’s the verdict — is it worth it?

If you want to make clean, lightweight creams that feel soft and breathable, then yes. It’s absolutely worth the effort. But be prepared for some trial and error. Olivem 1000 is not a lazy girl’s emulsifier — it’s for makers who want to level up their skills and are okay with a little mess in the beginning.

You can find Olivem 1000, Propanediol, Sepimax Zen, Spectrastat OEL, and Cetyl Alcohol at Natural Bulk Supplies.

Always test your formulation before using or selling. This blog is based on real indie maker experiences, not just lab specs.