Cocoa Butter Substitutes 

A guide for makers and formulators exploring affordable, effective alternatives to cocoa butter in anhydrous skincare products. 

What You’ll Learn in This Blog 

• Why is cocoa butter so expensive right now 
• Best 1:1 substitutes like kokum, illipe, and cupuacu butter 
• Ingredients that firm and stabilize anhydrous products 
• How to replace cocoa butter in emulsions and balms 
• Affordable tips for small business owners and formulators 

Want to shop for these ingredients? Explore affordable butter substitutes at Natural Bulk Supplies 

Why Cocoa Butter Is So Popular in Skincare 

Let’s talk about one of my all-time favorite ingredients: cocoa butter! I absolutely adore the rich, natural aroma of raw cocoa butter and the way it enhances some of my most cherished formulations. However, I've always had a bit of a challenge with fragrances—working with them often leaves me with migraines. That's why you’ll find that many of my facial products are fragrance-free. For those of us who love the scent of raw cocoa, it's a treat, but I know that not everyone feels the same. Some prefer refined cocoa butter to avoid its strong natural fragrance. 

But let’s face it—cocoa butter has become incredibly expensive lately. The price has skyrocketed everywhere, and here in Canada, it's now $93.99 per pound! Yikes!

Why Is Cocoa Butter So Expensive Right Now? 

So, why has the cost of cocoa butter increased so dramatically? The answer is multifaceted, but a significant factor is that the majority of the world’s cocoa butter supply comes from West Africa. Recently, extreme weather conditions have led to failing crops, resulting in shortages and, consequently, higher prices. 

In these times, with small businesses operating on tighter profit margins, it's crucial to explore alternative options for cocoa butter. In this post, I’ll delve into some research on this issue, discuss the impact on businesses like ours, and suggest potential substitutions that can help you maintain the quality of your products without breaking the bank. 

Cocoa Butter Overview (INCI, Benefits, Profile) 

Name: Cocoa Butter 

INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 

Description: 

Cocoa butter, extracted from the seeds of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao), is a rich and luxurious botanical butter, highly valued in cosmetic formulations for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is obtained from cocoa beans through pressing and refining processes. 

Celebrated for its emollient and skin-softening qualities, cocoa butter is a natural source of healthy fats, including oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. These fatty acids create a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture and preventing water loss, which helps maintain hydrated and supple skin. 

Cocoa butter also contains antioxidants like flavonoids and polyphenols, which protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals. This protection can help delay the signs of aging, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. 

Beyond its moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, cocoa butter has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective for calming irritated or inflamed skin. It can alleviate dryness, itchiness, and redness associated with conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. 

Comedogenic Rating: 4 

(This isn't major, despite what a lot of misinformation online leads DIYers to believe. I will cover this in-depth in future Patreon posts.) 

Skin Types Best Suited For:

Body Products, Mature Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis 

Absorption: Medium-Slow 

Melting Point: 34–38°C 

Fatty Acid Profile: 

• Palmitic Acid 25% 
• Stearic Acid 37% 
• Oleic Acid 34% 
• Linoleic Acid 3% 

Best Cosmetic Butter Substitutes for Cocoa Butter 

1. Kokum Butter 

Kokum Butter is a great cocoa butter substitute. It is a harder butter with similar properties. It can be substituted at an equal %. 

Melting Point: 37–40°C 

2. Illipe Butter 

Illipe Butter has similar properties to cocoa butter but has a higher melting point. If you are making anhydrous products, higher melting point butters can help to slightly prolong the melting time of your product. 

Melting Point: 37–42°C 

3. Cupuacu Butter 

Cupuacu Butter is a softer butter, but it is rich in stearic and oleic acids, making it another substitute for cocoa butter. If you are making an emulsified product, you could substitute at an equal %; however, with an anhydrous product, you will notice quite a difference in the overall texture of your finished product. 

Melting Point: 30–35°C 

�� Note: While there are a few other butter options, all of them are more expensive than cocoa butter currently is, which defeats the purpose of substituting.

What Is an Anhydrous Product? 

Definition: An anhydrous cosmetic product is a formulation that does not contain any water. These products comprise oils, butters, waxes, and other oil-soluble raw materials. 

Capabilities 

Anhydrous products, while excellent for protecting the skin and locking in moisture, do not hydrate the skin alone. This is because they lack water, essential for directly adding moisture to the skin. 

When used on their own, especially over an extended period, anhydrous products can lead to dryness. This happens because, although they seal the skin, they don't provide water to replenish moisture levels. Without adequate hydration from water or water-based products, the skin can become dehydrated, leading to dryness and a compromised skin barrier. 

However, anhydrous products are highly effective when combined with water-based products. When applied over a hydrating product like a toner, serum, or moisturizer, they help to lock in the moisture provided by those products. 

How to Firm and Thicken Anhydrous Formulations 

Common Uses of Cocoa Butter in Anhydrous Products 

Cocoa butter is commonly used in anhydrous products to thicken or harden a formulation while providing fantastic skin benefits. 

What You Can Use Instead 

There are plenty of options available (Yay!). Many of the alternatives I’ll list are not only more affordable but also offer substantial, prolonged melting times for your anhydrous products, along with some fantastic skin benefits. 

Substitutions Based on Product Type 

For Anhydrous Body Butters 

Ingredients to Use: 

• Stearic Acid 
• Cetyl Alcohol
• Cetearyl Alcohol 
• Non-Ionic Emulsifiers (Emulsifying Wax NF, Polawax, OliveM1000) 
• Cationic Emulsifier (BTMS-50) 
• Cetyl Esters 
• Jojoba Esters 
• Oliwax 
• Montanov L 

You do not need to add water to a product to use an emulsifier. The emulsifiers mentioned above are oil-soluble and will work perfectly in your anhydrous body butters. 

Typical Usage Rates: 

• Emulsifiers: 1–10% 
• Thickeners: 1–6% 

What Are Esters in Formulations? 

Esters in cosmetic formulations are synthetic or naturally-derived compounds formed by the reaction of an alcohol and a fatty acid. They enhance the texture, stability, and performance of various cosmetic products. 

Example – Cetyl Esters: 

Used in both emulsions and anhydrous products to provide a lubricious feel and soft gloss. In creams, lotions, and ointments, cetyl esters act as a stiffening agent and emollient, contributing to increased viscosity and improved stability. 

How to Replace Cocoa Butter in Emulsions and Balms 

In Emulsions 

You can substitute cocoa butter for another butter of your choice, at the same % in an emulsion. Hard butters like cocoa butter should never be used to thicken an emulsion. 

In Balms

When substituting cocoa butter in balms, you can opt for another cosmetic butter, such as kokum butter. The percentage of the substitute will depend on the specific butter you choose and the desired characteristics of your final product. 

You may need to experiment with different amounts for the right texture and consistency. Additionally, depending on your overall formulation, you might need to adjust the quantity of waxes to ensure that the final product matches the original cocoa butter formulation in terms of texture and performance. 

Frequently Asked Questions About Cocoa Butter Substitutes 

What can I use instead of cocoa butter in body butter? 

You can use kokum butter, illipe butter, or cupuacu butter as excellent substitutes. Kokum is the closest match in hardness and performance and can typically be used at a 1:1 ratio. These butters provide similar structure and skin benefits, making them great options when cocoa butter is too costly or unavailable. 

Is shea butter a good replacement for cocoa butter? 

Yes, refined shea butter can be used instead of cocoa butter, especially in emulsions. It has a softer texture, so for anhydrous products like balms and whipped body butters, you may need to combine it with thickeners like stearic acid or cetyl alcohol to maintain firmness and melting stability. 

What if my product melts too easily without cocoa butter? 

Suppose you're swapping out cocoa butter and your formula becomes too soft. In that case, you can firm it up by adding waxes or fatty alcohols like stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, or cetyl alcohol. These ingredients help extend melting time and improve texture in body butters, balms, and other anhydrous skincare products. 

Are there non-greasy substitutes for cocoa butter? 

Yes! For a lighter, less greasy feel, you can use ingredients like jojoba esters, cetyl esters, or Oliwax. These esters help enhance texture and glide while still supporting firmness, making them great additions for a smoother, more elegant finish in your formulation. 

Can I use coconut oil instead of cocoa butter? 

Coconut oil is softer and melts much more quickly than cocoa butter. It can be used in a pinch, but you’ll need to pair it with hard butters or waxes to maintain structure. On its own, coconut oil won't provide the same firmness or stability cocoa butter offers in anhydrous products. 

Ready to Try These Substitutes?

Natural Bulk Supplies offers high-quality, affordable butters and formulation ingredients for makers of all levels.  Shop cocoa butter alternatives now

Disclaimer: The information, opinions, and recommendations shared in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of Natural Bulk Supplies. This content is provided for educational purposes only. Natural Bulk Supplies is not liable for how this information is used. As an ingredient supplier, we support independent experts like Kennece by featuring their knowledge on our platform.