Emollients Explained: What’s the Real Difference Between MCT, CCT, and Fractionated Coconut Oil?
Posted by Natural Bulk Supplies on on Jun 27th 2025
If you’ve ever scanned the ingredient list on a skincare product or even started formulating your own, you’ve probably come across names like medium chain triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and fractionated coconut oil. They sound scientific, they look nearly identical, and more often than not, they’re used in the same way. So the natural question is: are they actually different, or just different names for the same thing?
Let’s break it all down together. I’ll explain what each term means, how they’re made, and when you should use one over the other.
Understanding Triglycerides in Skincare
Before we get into MCT, CCT, and FCO, it helps to understand what a triglyceride is.
A triglyceride is a molecule made of three fatty acids attached to a glycerol backbone. These fatty acids vary in length. Some are short, some are long, and others, like the ones we’re interested in here, are medium chain.
Medium-chain fatty acids are named for the number of carbon atoms they contain. For example:
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Caproic acid has 6 carbon atoms (C6)
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Caprylic acid has 8 (C8)
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Capric acid has 10 (C10)
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Lauric acid has 12 (C12)
The “C” just refers to carbon atoms. So when we talk about medium-chain triglycerides, we’re referring to triglycerides built from fatty acids that are between 6 and 12 carbon atoms long.
These medium chain triglycerides are valued in skincare because they absorb quickly, don’t feel greasy, and help improve the texture and spread of products. They’re often used as emollients, which are ingredients that soften and smooth the skin.
What is MCT?
MCT stands for medium-chain triglycerides. It’s a general term that refers to triglycerides composed of medium-chain fatty acids—usually a mix of C6, C8, C10, and sometimes C12.
You’ll see MCT oil often in nutrition and supplements. It’s used in keto products and as a fast energy source in health foods. When it comes to skincare though, MCT is not a regulated cosmetic name. It doesn’t tell you the exact composition, purity, or even whether it’s meant for topical use.
An MCT oil might be mostly caprylic and capric acid, or it might contain lauric acid or other trace fats. It might be derived from coconut, but it could also come from palm kernel, babassu, or even algae. Without an INCI name or specification from your supplier, you can’t always be sure what you’re working with.
What is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT)?
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, often referred to as CCT, is the cosmetic industry's refined, reliable version of MCT oil. It’s made specifically from caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). These two fatty acids are bonded to a glycerol backbone to form a highly stable, light, and skin-compatible triglyceride.
What makes CCT especially useful is that it’s an INCI-recognized ingredient. That means you know exactly what’s in it, and you can use it confidently in product labeling and regulatory documentation.
CCT is colorless, odorless, and leaves a silky, dry-touch feel on the skin. It absorbs quickly, doesn’t clog pores, and has excellent oxidative stability, meaning it won’t go rancid easily. You’ll find it in cleansers, moisturizers, oil serums, sunscreens, balms, and even makeup removers.
Because it’s so consistent and versatile, CCT is one of my go-to emollients in modern formulation. It plays well with just about everything and gives a luxurious skin feel without the heaviness of many plant oils.
What is Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO)?
Fractionated Coconut Oil, or FCO, is where things get a little confusing. It’s a common name, not a chemical or regulatory one. FCO refers to a version of coconut oil that has been processed to remove long-chain fatty acids, especially lauric acid.
What’s left behind is a liquid oil that remains fluid at room temperature. This liquid is composed mostly of—you guessed it—caprylic and capric triglycerides. That means, in most cases, FCO is essentially CCT derived from coconut.
But not all CCT is FCO. While FCO must come from coconut, CCT might come from coconut or palm or another plant source. So if you’re avoiding palm-based ingredients, for environmental or ethical reasons, make sure your CCT is labeled as coconut-derived before calling it FCO.
In short, if your ingredient is labeled Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and is derived from coconut oil, you can accurately refer to it as Fractionated Coconut Oil. But if it’s from palm or mixed sources, it’s not FCO even if it’s chemically identical.
Are MCT, CCT, and FCO the Same?
This is the big question. In terms of function and feel, they’re very similar. But chemically, contextually, and commercially, they are not exactly the same.
Here’s how to think about it.
MCT is a broad category. It could contain any medium-chain triglycerides, and it might or might not be suitable for cosmetic use.
CCT is a cosmetic-grade, INCI-named ingredient composed solely of C8 and C10. It’s precise, stable, and ideal for skincare.
FCO is a commonly used name for coconut-derived CCT. It’s a more casual label, but still widely recognized—make sure the origin is coconut.
So, are they interchangeable? Sometimes, yes. If you’re formulating for personal use, and your MCT oil is pure and stable, you can likely substitute it. But for commercial formulas, regulatory documentation, and ingredient accuracy, CCT is the safest and most appropriate choice.
How are these ingredients made?
None of these are made just by cold-pressing a coconut and bottling the result.
Instead, oils like coconut or palm kernel are fractionated. That means they are broken down to separate the different types of fatty acids. The long-chain ones, like lauric and myristic acid, are removed. The medium-chain ones especially caprylic and capric are isolated and then re-esterified to form new triglycerides. These triglycerides are made by bonding the selected fatty acids to a glycerol backbone.
The result is a highly pure and stable ingredient that we recognize as caprylic/capric triglyceride, or cosmetic-grade MCT oil.
Because of this esterification process, these triglycerides are sometimes also referred to as emollient esters. That’s technically correct; triglycerides are a type of ester by definition.
Final Thoughts from Me
Understanding the difference between MCT, CCT, and FCO is more than just a labeling exercise. It’s about knowing what you’re working with, being clear in your communication, and making informed choices based on function, origin, and regulatory requirements.
If you prefer ingredients derived specifically from coconut and want to avoid palm, look for fractionated coconut oil that’s clearly labeled and traceable.
For most everyday users, the differences may feel subtle. But as a maker, I can tell you those subtle differences are precisely where the formulation magic—and integrity—lives.
Know your source. Read your labels. And always formulate with intention.