Thickeners in Skincare: A Complete Comparison Guide

Introduction

In skincare, viscosity isn’t just about how thick a product feels it’s what gives a formula its stability, texture, and that perfect sensory experience customers love. The right thickener helps create everything from lightweight gels to rich, luxurious creams, while keeping your product stable and easy to use.

As more consumers look for clean, eco-friendly beauty products, thickeners have become a key part of modern skincare formulation.

This guide breaks down the most popular cosmetic thickeners how they perform, what they’re best for, and tips for formulating with them. All examples reference real, ready-to-use ingredients available from Natural Bulk Supplies, so small brands and creators can easily find what they need to bring their next skincare idea to life.

What Thickeners Do in Formulations

Thickeners perform key functions in cosmetic systems: -

Viscosity Control: Adjust product thickness for desired feel.

Stabilization: Support emulsions, suspensions, and gels.

Texture Design: Influence spreadability, pick-up, and finish.

Consumer Perception: Reinforce premium or natural claims.

Key Cosmetic Thickeners from Natural Bulk Supplies

1. Xanthan Gum 200 (INCI: Xanthan Gum)

• Source: Fermentation of Xanthomonas campestris.
  
  
• Properties: Pseudoplastic flow; excellent stabilizer in emulsions.
  
  
• Pros: Cost-effective, globally approved, ECOCERT/COSMOS certified.
  
  
• Cons: May feel tacky at >0.5%.
  
  
• Use Levels:2–0.5%.
  
  
• Shop: Xanthan Gum – Natural Bulk Supplies

2. SOLAGUM™ AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum)

• Source: Blend of acacia gum and xanthan gum.
  
  
• Properties: Multifunctional natural rheology modifier.
  
  
• Pros: Provides smooth, elegant textures with excellent suspension power.
  
  
• Cons: Requires proper hydration to avoid clumping.
  
  
• Use Levels:5–1.5%.
  
  
• Shop: SOLAGUM™ AX – Natural Bulk Supplies

3. Cationic Guar Gum (INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)

• Source: Derived from guar beans.
  
  
• Properties: Thickens aqueous systems, improves conditioning in hair and skin products.
  
  
• Pros: Provides slip and detangling effect in conditioners and serums.
  
  
• Cons: Less stable in highly acidic systems.
  
  
• Use Levels:2–0.8%.
  
  
• Shop: Cationic Guar Gum – Natural Bulk Supplies

4. Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) (INCI: Hydroxyethylcellulose)

• Source: Modified cellulose polymer.
  
  
• Properties: Creates smooth, stable gels.
  
  
• Pros: Wide pH compatibility; works well in surfactant systems.
  
  
• Cons: Perception as semi-synthetic due to modification.
  
  
• Use Levels:5–2%.

5. Carbomer 940 (INCI: Carbomer)

• Source: Synthetic polymer.
  
  
• Properties: Creates clear, stable gels with high viscosity.
  
  
• Pros: Excellent thickener for serums and gels, widely used.
  
  
• Cons: Requires neutralization to work effectively.
  
  
• Use Levels:1–0.5%.
  
  
• Shop: Carbomer 940 – Natural Bulk Supplies

6. Stearic Acid (INCI: Stearic Acid)

• Source: Fatty acid, often from vegetable sources.
  
  
• Properties: Provides structure and viscosity to creams and butters.
  
  
• Pros: Adds body and stability to emulsions.
  
  
• Cons: Can increase heaviness if used at high levels.
  
  
• Use Levels: 1–5%.
  
  
• Shop: Stearic Acid – Natural Bulk Supplies

7. Polyquaternium-10 (INCI: Polyquaternium-10)

• Source: Quaternized cellulose polymer.
  
  
• Properties: Conditioning polymer that thickens and stabilizes systems.
  
  
• Pros: Excellent for shampoos, conditioners, and leave-ins.
  
  
• Cons: Synthetic perception may not fit “all-natural” claims.
  
  
• Use Levels:2–1%.
  
  
• Shop: Polyquaternium-10 – Natural Bulk Supplies

Comparison Table: Thickeners in Skincare

Thickener	Source	Pros	Cons	Typical Use Levels
Xanthan Gum	Fermentation	Stable, cost-effective	Tacky >0.5%	0.2–0.5%
SOLAGUM™ AX	Gum blend	Elegant, multifunctional	Needs proper hydration	0.5–1.5%
Cationic Guar Gum	Plant-based	Conditioning, slip	Lower acid stability	0.2–0.8%
Hydroxyethylcell.	Cellulose	Smooth texture, versatile	Modified perception	0.5–2%
Sclerotium Gum	Fermentation	Elastic gels, synergy	Higher cost	0.1–0.5%
Sodium Alginate	Brown seaweed	Film-forming, cooling	Limited salt tolerance	1–3%
Carbomer 940	Synthetic	Clear, strong gels	Requires neutralization	0.1–0.5%
Stearic Acid	Fatty acid	Body, structure	Can feel heavy if overdosed	1–5%
Polyquaternium-10	Cellulose der	Conditioning, thickener	Synthetic perception	0.2–1%

 

Formulation Insights

Synergy & Blends

• Xanthan + Sclerotium Gum: Produces elegant, stable gels.
  
  
• Cationic Guar Gum + Polyquaternium-10: Boosts conditioning in haircare.
  
  
• Stearic Acid + Carbomer: Combines fatty structure with polymer clarity.

pH & Electrolyte Sensitivity

• Sodium alginate and some gums are sensitive to salts and extreme pH.
  
  
• Carbomer requires neutralization for maximum viscosity.

Hydration Technique

• Pre-disperse powders (gums, carbomers) in glycerin to prevent clumping.
  
  
• Allow 20–30 minutes under moderate shear for full hydration.

Sensory Balance

• Reduce tackiness of xanthan with esters or blends.
  
  
• Use stearic acid for body creams where rich texture is desired.

Common Mistakes

• Overdosing gums → slimy or stringy textures.
  
  
• Not neutralizing carbomers correctly.
  
  
• Skipping hydration step, leading to clumps.

Sourcing & Sustainability

• Natural Bulk Supplies ensures consistent batch quality for R&D and scale-up.
  
  
• Plant- and fermentation-derived options available for natural claims.

Why Buy Thickeners from Natural Bulk Supplies

• Wide selection: gums, polymers, fatty thickeners, and conditioning agents.
  
  
• Batch-tested for quality consistency.
  
  
• Scalable solutions for both pilot and full production runs.

Shop Cosmetic Thickeners | Browse All Cosmetic Raw Materials

Conclusion

Thickeners provide formulators with tools to adjust viscosity, enhance stability, and shape sensory profiles. By understanding each ingredient’s unique properties and selecting the right blend, cosmetic chemists can create high-performing products that meet consumer demands. With reliable bulk supplies from Natural Bulk Supplies, you can move from lab prototypes to scalable production with confidence.